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Food Service |
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Legumes in institutional catering
Introduction:
To find out what role legumes play in institutional
cooking in Spain, LegumeChef asked Mario Cañizal
and Jean-Claude Lobató of FORHOS (Formation
y Consultoría para Hostelería S.L.)
and Martina Miserachs of CESNID (Nutrition and Dietetics
Study Center at Barcelona University) analyze the
current situation of legumes in the institutional
kitchen, and especially in school dining rooms, on
the basis of
· Interviews with twenty dieticians and kitchen
managers in institutional catering in Spain (both
for central kitchens and in centers with their own
kitchen and dining room services)
· A comparative analysis of the official recommendations
and the typical menus in institutional cooking
I.Reality vs.
Recommendations:
IAfter talking to the professionals and checking on
the latest official recommendations, Cañizal
observed that ". . . it is clear that there are
important shortcomings in matters of the use of legumes
in the different dishes offered (by institutional
kitchens) . . ." "Although the principal
dietetic authorities recommend including legumes in
the menu at least twice a week, the fact is that this
rarely happens." "In one out of three schools
surveyed, neither fish nor vegetables are included
more than once per week, while only one in four included
legumes more than once weekly."
Comparison between the average school menu values
and the Nutritional Objectives proposed by the Spanish
Community Nutrition Society (S.E.N.C.),

According to Cañizal, "The comparison
between the school menu values and the Nutritional
Objectives proposed by the Spanish Community Nutrition
Society (S.E.N.C.), shows that the menus that Spanish
schoolchildren consume have:
- Excess proteins
- Excess fats
- Excess cholesterol
- Lack of carbohydrates
- Lack of fiber
"This leads us to consider that legumes are
not properly used in the planning and preparation
of menus, in spite of their important advantages in
matters of nutritional values and contribution to
the objectives of cost control, as is demonstrated
below with a simple example of replacing a small percentage
of meat with legumes in school menus."
II. Financial and Nutritional Advantages
With an analysis of costs and nutritional values,
Institutional Catering Chef and Adviser Jean-Claude
Lobato demonstrates that legumes could improve exploitation
costs and the nutritional value of the menus offered
in institutional dining rooms.
Taking as an example a company serving meals in a
canteen and consuming annually:

Reducing the consumption of meat by 5% (approximately
one dish per month) and replacing it with legumes
we obtain:
- Meats: 173,515 Kgs - 5% = 164,839 Kgs x € 3.39
= € 558,804
- Legumes: 29,229 Kgs + 8,676 Kgs x € 1.21 =
€ 45,869

Generating a saving of: € 623,582 - 604,673 =
€ 18,909/year, that is, 3.03%, through
reducing the consumption of meat by only 5%, knowing
that the cost reduction could be greater if more legumes
were eaten.
With regard to the Food Values before replacing meat
with legumes:
Values per 100 Gr. Product:
After replacing 5% of the meat with legumes:
Table reflecting the nutritional values before replacing
meat with legumes (in orange) and after (in grey)
NUTRITIONAL VALUE OF CONSUMPTION
OBSERVED/PROPOSED
Observed Proposed
Proteins Carbohydrates Lipids Cholesterol Fibre
Calcium Iron Vit.C
III. Why are legumes not more used in institutional
cooking?
This question was put to twenty professionals concerned
with institutional kitchens in Spain, focusing on
the traditional topics that have grown up around legumes,
that we can summarize as:
-Children don't like legumes
-Legumes need a long preparation time
-Legumes are not easily digested
-Legumes are fattening
-Legumes are considered as a "poor people's"
food
The professionals agreed that three of the five "barriers"
were no longer valid
· Children don't like legumes: While they recognized
that the chef of a school dining room is up against
some difficult challenges in preparing dishes which
are both nutritious and popular with the young people,
they do not think that legumes present special problems.
On the contrary, many quote favorite dishes in their
schools which include legumes (see some of these below)
· Legumes are not easily digested: Here the
dieticians were emphatic: the nutritional advantages
of legumes outweigh the inconveniences of difficult
digestion and gases suffered by those who do not usually
eat legumes at home. To help to accustom them to this
kind of food, they recommended:
o starting with purées and cream soups with
legumes (especially split peas, decorticated lentils,
and other legumes without skin)
o mixing the legumes with pasta, rice and other starches.
· Legumes are fattening: In spite of the widely
touted benefits of the Mediterranean diet, and the
growing use of legumes in salads and light and modern
dishes, this idea that legumes are fattening still
endures. To counteract it, they recommend avoiding
traditional dishes of legumes with large quantities
of fats and meat products.
· Cañizal made the important observation
that school lunchrooms are an ideal educational forum
for combating these misconceptions, and for teaching
healthy dietary habits in general.
The professionals contacted did identify two real
barriers existing against the legume in institutional
cooking:
· Legumes need a long preparation time: To
benefit from the financial advantages of legumes,
it is preferable to buy them dry. The professionals
recommend:
o soaking the night before, for all legumes
o use skinned (decorticated) legumes - they cook in
15 to 30 minutes
o use legumes from the latest crop, and preferably
from the USA, to ensure more rapid and consistent
cooking
o cook them in soft water
o if the legume or the water is very hard, add bicarbonate
of soda
o cooked legumes freeze very well - take advantage
of periods of low activity in the kitchen to cook
them, and freeze them for future use
· Other options mentioned:
o buy legumes already cooked by a specialized legume
cooker (in Catalonia, Valencia and Madrid)
o use canned or frozen legumes
· "The client does not ask for more legumes
on the menu because they are considered low-class
food." This battle can be won both with nutritional
arguments from the dieticians themselves, and with
gastronomic arguments i.e. modern and attractive legume
dishes. You will find below, and in the www.legumechef.com
recipe database, ideas that you can use so that legumes
help you improve the service you give to your clients,
and at the same time improve your profits at the end
of the month.
We would like to express our special thanks to the
following professionals and companies of the institutional
kitchen sector for their contributions to this study:
· Mario Cañizal FORHOS (Formation y
Consultoría para Hostelería S.L.)
· Jean-Claude Lobato, FORHOS (Formation y Consultoría
para Hostelería S.L.)
· Martina Miserachs CESNID (Nutrition and Dietetics
Study Center at Barcelona University)
· Pineda de l´Hospitalet School (Barcelona)
· Catergest (Madrid)
· Pía Sarría-Calassan School,
served by RC & Servicios, Sant Boi (Barcelona)
· Alessa (Barcelona)
· Serunion (Barcelona)