It seems that we have been seeing recently a rediscovery of legumes in haute cuisine
There's no doubt about it, above all since the Mediterranean diet has been promoted as an ideal nutritional model. And I still think they are not sufficiently valued, as many of the legumes are products rated 10.
In Spanish cuisine, however, they enjoy a long culinary tradition...
In Spanish cooking they have always been a subsistence product, with a high protein value. The popular cooking in Catalonia, my homeland, has a very extensive series of recipes for legumes. And in the Basque Country I learned to use the legume in haute cuisine.
What role do you reserve for legumes in your philosophy of cooking?
Always as an element that takes you back into the past to recall both flavours and childhood. Also, legumes are a synonym of flavour..
It is a product with a strong personality, with the qualities of a main ingredient
You only have to look at the popular recipes to realise the individual value of legumes. Also, simply cooked and sautéed al dente, they are delicious.
But also as an accompaniment or combined with other foods there's a lot of scope.
Of course, I combine them with fatty elements and vegetables; and also with a whole range of spices and aromas. I particularly like them with products that give firmness and a crunchy texture.
One of the most versatile ingredients.
And that is just what makes them a very attractive product: the legume is so adaptable. At the moment I have 3 dishes with legumes and I am even working on a dessert. That's difficult and, of course, it puts my determination to proof.
Also, we must mention the number of varieties on offer: lentils, chickpeas, peas, beans … which is your favourite?
Lentils and, of course, the fresh bean or "pocha" are my favourites. The legume has to be cooked so that it is savoury, fresh and light.
This makes it suitable for eating at any season.
Every fresh legume has its moment. And dried legumes are stewed, logically, when the body needs them.
With so many possibilities, for a chef, legumes must be a welcome product …
Very welcome and good. I also think that, since their nutritional value has been emphasised, they are much more highly regarded.
Also for the public?
The public always accepts products when they are good and, of course, when the quality-price ratio is right.
